SS2025

A captivating fusion of ancient heritage and modern sophistication, this season Tam takes you on a journey to the far-flung region of Wuzhishan (Five Finger Mountain) on the sunny island of Hainan, often called China’s very own Hawaii. Lush flora, vibrant fauna, and cosmic energies set the scene for tribal yarning, weaving, dyeing, and embroidery - and the ambitious task hinged on reinterpreting the 3,000-year-old tradition of Lí Jǐn Chinese ethnic minority brocade fabrics.

Transforming a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage into a contemporary fashion narrative is no small feat. The collection opens with a series of modern geometric separates, mirroring boxy silhouettes of the Li tribe’s traditional clothing. These pieces are not historical replicas but a transformation of the traditional shapes and craftsmanship of the Li, infusing them with a modern, resort-ready appeal. Each piece, integrated with indigenous style strength and creativity.
The Li’s leitmotifs appear: Herculean strongman, dears, frogs, flowers, and dancing woman, are re-contextualized and reengineered into new graphic patterns. A tribal woman appears in modern sunglasses, the symmetrical iconography echoing Tam’s motif of past years.

Hainan’s Li artisans crafted many of the fabrics with their indigenous methods - a communal undertaking at the very far end of the spectrum from today’s fast fashion. By empowering the Li women, and supporting a new generation of artisans, a narrative of creativity is woven into each piece. Sustainability an ongoing concern in the way that Tam lives as a Taoist and in the way she designs.
This unique craftsmanship is offered with a fresh, resort-like sensibility. Crisp white lace, some almost crotchet-like, sets the tone, while vibrant nature-inspired color contrasts - splashes of ginger, indigo and cornflower blue, spinach green, and red cabbage purple - add a refreshing tropical vitality. Blazers, cool girl color denim, polo dresses, cheeky short sets, mini wrap skirts and sporty jackets nod to athleisure’s ease.

Tam then introduces a more fluid, feminine element: dresses and youthful bubble skirts strike a graceful balance. The tactile allure of denim, cotton, silks, linens, lace, appliqué, and embroidery pays homage to Lí Jǐn, bringing the island’s natural beauty to life. Playful variations in proportions bridge the gap between Hainan’s heritage and a modern sartorial style meant for the streets of Paris, Hong Kong, and New York.

In an industry often fixated on the fleeting, Tam’s ode to the Li ethnic tribe is a testament to the enduring power of tradition - here over 3,000 years of it. Tam breathes new life into ancient Chinese artisanal techniques. Reimagined through a contemporary lens, she makes them resonate today.